Jan 2012 Dampness is a massive problem for many homeowners. It can intensify mould and dust mites that often increase respiratory illnesses and can occur in flats or houses. It often causes mould on furniture and walls and can rot wooden floorboards and window frames. If you think that you have a problem with dampness the first thing to do is establish what the cause is. Timber decay and dampness are often universal in older UK buildings.  The extent of the problem varies from insignificant to major structural damage.  To have a dampness problem identified correctly it is important that you contact an appropriately skilled expert.

Regular checks and planned repairs are the best approach to maintaining your home. It is always better to check out any complications before they become serious problems. When buying a property always employ a damp proofing specialist to fully survey the property for timber decay, woodworm, moisture and dampness. Curing dampness using cost effective chemically free solutions that are injected into the masonry to form a new damp proofing which allows the masonry to breath can help with the drying out of the affected area.

Some builders and damp companies recommend a chemical, injected damp proofing course with replastering. Injected damp proofing courses will never completely cure dampness problems and are slightly less effective when injected into walls that are already damp than if they are injected into dry ones. The chemical cannot completely remove moisture (via displacement). Ideally the injection should be into the mortar beds but it is unlikely that you will ever get a perfectly dry wall longer term. It is a good idea to concentrate on eliminating the cause of the dampness to prevent water reaching the wall and maximising the evaporation.

Rising damp causes dampness on the ground floor level, which usually means that water is getting into the walls and flooring from the ground. Usually, this is because the property was built without damp proofing or the damp proof course is not working. If you believe that you may have rising damp check for crumbling, blocked or missing brickwork, missing or damaged roof slates and items piled up against the wall that are above the level of the damp proofing course.

During the late Victorian period cavity walls started to be used, usually integrating a slate damp proofing course which is bridged inside. Any rotting or surplus mortar from the wall may fall to the bottom of the cavity which can then build up to a point above the damp proofing course. This problem has occurred in houses built in the 1930’s as well and the only solution is to take out bricks at intervals, and clear out the debris. It is essential to concentrate on eliminating the causes of damp. Always check the guttering for leaks and overflows when raining as this can be the number one cause of dampness because water is entering the cavity.

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